Bike Safety Check (Enhanced ‘M’ Check)

Whenever you ride your bike it’s worth taking a couple of minutes to check that it’s safe to ride. It’s easy to do, requires no tools, and could prevent you from having a serious accident.

The safety check I describe below is based on the basic ‘M’ Check but goes into much more detail.

The ‘M’ check is so called because it follows the frame lines of the standard diamond frame bicycle, starting from the front wheel, up the forks, down the down tube, up the seat tube, and down the seatstays to the rear wheel. It’s a useful memory aid, which ensures you cover all the parts of the bicycle in a methodical way.

Here’s my version:

Stand with the bike such that the chain is facing you.

1. Front tyre. Check tread, pressure, sidewalls (for tears).

2. Front rim. Check for cracks and dents and excessive wear (from rim brakes). Spin the wheel, hold your finger against the fork, and check that the rim is true.

3. Spokes. With the wheel spinning, gently brush the spokes to spot any loose or broken ones. A rattle will indicate a problem.

4. Front hub. Hold the wheel and rock side to side, feeling for any play in the hub. If there is any play it should be sorted promptly.

5. Front wheel quick release (QR) skewer or axle bolts. Check for tightness. If it’s a QR then ensure that the lever is pointing upwards and/or backwards, so that it’s not likely to get knocked open whilst riding.

6. Front brake. As we head up the forks we’ll reach either the disc brake caliper or standard caliper/v-brake blocks. Check for wear. Check that they’re positioned correctly and held in place properly.

7. Headset. The headset should be checked for play and wear. To check for play, apply the front brake and rock the bike backwards and forwards. Any looseness will result in a clicking/clunking feel. To check for wear hold the front wheel off the ground by holding the frame, and spin the handlebars from side to side. A grinding/crunching feeling indicates wear. Play or wear should be fixed promptly.

8. Stem. The stem holds the handlebars in place and should be tight to prevent the bars from turning independently of the front wheel. Check for tightness by holding the front wheel between the legs and attempting to turn the bars. The bars shouldn’t move with a reasonable force applied.

9. Brake levers. The brake levers should be checked for secureness, position, and operation. The check the levers are secure, hold the entire lever in the hand and try to rotate it on the bar. To check for position, place the hands in riding position and make sure that the lever is within reach of your fingers. To check for operation, pull each lever in turn: pull the front brake lever and step forward one step – the rear wheel should leave the ground; pull the rear brake lever and step backwards – the front wheel should leave the ground. Whilst pulling the brake levers ensure that they do not trap the fingers against the bar. Visually inspect the levers to ensure that there are no cracks, leaks (hydraulic brakes), and that the cables aren’t damaged where they enter the levers (cable brakes)

10. Gear levers. It’s not possible to check the operation of the gears on a stationary bicycle (without using a bike stand), but you should check that the levers are held securely on the handlebars. Grap hold of them and try to rotate them – they shouldn’t move. Check that the cables aren’t damaged where they enter the gear levers.

11. Grips/bar tape. Make sure these are secure on the bar and don’t spin. Also check that the ends of the handlebars are plugged.

12. Crank arms/bottom bracket. Hold each crank arm in turn and rock from side to side (i.e. through the frame) feeling for any looseness. Looseness in both crank arms indicates play in the bottom bracket. Looseness in only a single crank arm indicates that it isn’t securely held in place. Rotate the crank arms feeling for any roughness or grinding in the bottom bracket.

13. Pedals. Spin the pedals to ensure they rotate. Move them from side to side to ensure they’re secure on their axles. Lever them up and down to check they’re secure in the crank arms.

14. Drivechain – whilst we’re at the bottom bracket it makes sense to check the drivechain. There are 3 main parts to check:

a. Chainrings. Check each chainring for missing or bent teeth. Also check for excessively worn teeth. Check that all chainring bolts (the bolts that hold the chainrings onto the crankarm) are in place and tight.

b. Chain. Visually inspect the chain for damaged links and/or bends.

c. Cassette. As for the chainrings, check for damaged, bent, or excessively worn teeth. Pedals backwards to ensure the freehub rotates.

15. Saddle. Check the saddle is secure – try to twist it and rock it backwards and forwards. It shouldn’t move.

16. Rear brake. As we head down the seatstays we reach either the disc brake caliper or standard caliper/v-brake blocks. Check for wear. Check that they’re positioned correctly and held in place properly.

17. Rear wheel quick release (QR) skewer or axle bolts. Check for tightness. If it’s a QR then ensure that the lever is pointing upwards and/or backwards, so that it’s not likely to get knocked open whilst riding.

18. Rear hub. Hold the wheel and rock side to side, feeling for any play in the hub. If there is any play it should be sorted promptly.

19. Spokes. With the wheel spinning, gently brush the spokes to spot any loose or broken ones. A rattle will indicate a problem.

20. Rear rim. Check for cracks and dents and excessive wear (from rim brakes). Spin the wheel, hold your finger against the fork, and check that the rim is true.

21. Rear tyre. Check tread, pressure, sidewalls (for tears).

22. Visually inspect the frame for cracks or blistered paint that might indicate damage.

That’s it. It sounds like a lot to check, but once you’ve done it a few times and get used to doing it then you’ll find it only takes a minute or so, and that minute could well be the most well-spent time of your life!

Once you’ve finished the ‘M’ check you should ride the bike slowly to ensure that the gears are working properly and to re-check the operation of the brakes -there’s nothing like the added weight of a rider to find a fault with the brakes.

It might sound obvious, but if you find any problems with your bike then it’s important to get them fixed. If you’re not confident about fixing the bike yourself, then take it to a bike shop or sign up for a bike maintenance course!

Now go out and enjoy your ride!